Bornholm is a pretty little island between Denmark and Sweden in the Baltic Sea. Here we visited the Hammershus fortress complex, the coastal town of Gudhjem and one of Bornholm’s four round churches.
Hammershus is the largest medieval fortress complex in Northern Europe positioned on a cliff top on Bornholm’s northwest coast which was built in the 13th century. It is a symbol of shifting political control in the Baltic. The castle was gradually abandoned in the 18th century leaving behind an extensive network of walls, gates, towers, and courtyards. Our walk up to Hammershus was somewhat challenging.
Gudhjem is built on a steep hillside that tumbles down to
a busy little harbour. Its name means
“God’s Home”. Historically Gudhjem grew
as a fishing village famous for its herring smokehouses. Today Gudhjem is a blend of fishing heritage
and artisan culture with plenty of opportunity for shopping. Small boats still use Gudhjem harbour and
ferries depart to Christiansø,
a Danish island located about
10 nautical miles from Bornholm.
One of the shops had this wonderful old till.
Our last visit of the day was to Østerlars Rundkirke
which is the largest and oldest of Bornholm’s four round churches. It was built around 1150–1160 with massive
stone walls. Østerlars Rundkirke’s three‑storey
defensive structure reflect the island’s turbulent medieval past when churches
doubled as fortifications. The church
inside centres on a hollow round pillar decorated with a cycle of 14th‑century
frescoes depicting biblical scenes from the life of Christ.
The bell tower stands apart from the church.
Our favourite spot for a drink after dinner is the
observation lounge where we can watch the ship making its way through the
Baltic Sea.
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