5th of August 2026 - Bornholm

Bornholm is a pretty little island between Denmark and Sweden in the Baltic Sea.  Here we visited the Hammershus fortress complex, the coastal town of Gudhjem and one of Bornholm’s four round churches.

Hammershus is the largest medieval fortress complex in Northern Europe positioned on a cliff top on Bornholm’s northwest coast which was built in the 13th century.  It is a symbol of shifting political control in the Baltic.  The castle was gradually abandoned in the 18th century leaving behind an extensive network of walls, gates, towers, and courtyards.  Our walk up to Hammershus was somewhat challenging.

 

Gudhjem is built on a steep hillside that tumbles down to a busy little harbour.  Its name means “God’s Home”.  Historically Gudhjem grew as a fishing village famous for its herring smokehouses.  Today Gudhjem is a blend of fishing heritage and artisan culture with plenty of opportunity for shopping.  Small boats still use Gudhjem harbour and ferries depart to Christiansø, a Danish island located about 10 nautical miles from Bornholm.

 

One of the shops had this wonderful old till.

Our last visit of the day was to Østerlars Rundkirke which is the largest and oldest of Bornholm’s four round churches.  It was built around 1150–1160 with massive stone walls.  Østerlars Rundkirke’s three‑storey defensive structure reflect the island’s turbulent medieval past when churches doubled as fortifications.  The church inside centres on a hollow round pillar decorated with a cycle of 14th‑century frescoes depicting biblical scenes from the life of Christ.

 

The bell tower stands apart from the church. 

Our favourite spot for a drink after dinner is the observation lounge where we can watch the ship making its way through the Baltic Sea.

4th of August - Boarding our ship for our Baltic cruise

 Today we boarded our ship, the Silver Dawn.

We toasted our arrival on board with a glass of champagne in our home for the next week.

During dinner we left the port of Copenhagen.

3rd of August - Tivoli Gardens

We spent our second morning in Copenhagen just walking round the city and doing some shopping.

In the afternoon we visited Tivoli Gardens which is Copenhagen’s famous pleasure park, a blend of old‑world charm with pretty gardens and fairground rides right in the heart of the city.  Opened in 1843, it’s famous for its atmosphere, lakes, flower beds and ornate pavilions.

We had lunch in a charming Danish restaurant from which we could hear the music from the orchestra before walking round the gardens.

We enjoyed walking off our lunch strolling round the gardens.

We didn't go on any of the rides.  I would have done so many years ago.

The following ride looked positively stomach churning.

We went back to Nyhavn for dinner where I had an excellent moule with frites.  A delightful moment of the evening was when the couple sitting next to us topped up my wine glass.

2nd of August 2026 - Nyhavn, The Little Mermaid and Christiansborg Palace

Today we walked around Copenhagen which is a beautiful city with a lovely harbour with old ships, many squares, fountains and canals.

 

Our walking tour started with Nyhavn which is a 17th-century waterfront, canal and entertainment district lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses, bars, cafes and restaurants. The canal harbours many historical wooden ships.  We stopped for croissants and coffee in the café Nyhavn 17.

 

We then walked through the square Amalienborg Slotsplads with the equestrian statue of King Frederick V at its centre.  The square is in front of Amalienborg Palace, the official residence of the Danish royal family.

Frederik’s Church with its green dome is more commonly known as The Marble Church (Marmorkirken).

 

The Gefion Fountain (Gefionspringvandet) depicts the Norse goddess Gefion driving a chariot pulled by oxen, symbolizing the myth in which she carved the island of Zealand (where Copenhagen sits) out of Sweden.  This fountain leads to a promenade along the waterfront at Langelinie to reach The Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue) which is a bronze statue by Edvard Eriksen depicting a mermaid becoming human.

 

After stopping for refreshments at the Admiral Hotel on the waterfront we then went up the tower at Christiansborg Palace for views over the city, thank goodness there were lifts.

 

The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is one of Copenhagen’s most beautiful museums.  We didn't have time to visit the museum however it is impressive architecturally.  It was founded by Carl Jacobsen, the son of the Carlsberg Brewery founder.

 

This sculpture is “The Genetically Modified Paradise” by Danish artist Bjørn Nørgaard which is part of Nørgaard’s series exploring humanity’s relationship with science, ethics, and creation.  The figures, human forms with animal heads, symbolize genetic manipulation and the blurred boundaries between nature and technology.  The raised hand and busts above them add a sense of judgment or reflection, inviting viewers to think about moral responsibility in scientific progress.

 

In the evening we went back to Nyhavn for dinner where we found a delightfully quirky old restaurant that did excellent fish and seafood.

 

We then went for peach Bellinis in the Villa Copenhagen hotel housed in Copenhagen’s former Central Post & Telegraph Office, a 1912 landmark, before walking back to our hotel past the Tivoli Gardens.